Self-drafted sewing

Wednesday, November 19, 2014


So this post is about something I've been working on for quite a while and I'm really excited to share... My very first self-drafted sew! I mentioned that I was going to an evening course in pattern drafting a little while back, and this is my first finished garment - a sort of wearable muslin and product of the pattern pieces I've been working on.



It's by no means perfect, and the final garment I'm working towards will probably look quite different, but it has princess seams, pleats and petal sleeves and I'm pretty proud of it (try saying that after a glass of vino ha!)



The course is very self directed. I just took along a mood board in the first week and ended up using one of the dresses as my main inspiration (the one in the middle on the right hand page, I think it might be Viven of Holloway). It has quite a vintage feel and a few features and techniques that made it interesting and just the right amount of a challenge to draft.



I had to start off with the very basics, so I made my own bodice block. A block is a basic pattern piece that you make using your measurements to perfectly fit you. It took a few muslins and tweaks to get right, but it will be really useful as a starting point to have and work from. Some of the others in the class made personal blocks, and it was really interesting to see how different they all looked! My front bodice differed massively in size to my back - no wonder I've ended up trimming down the centre back seams on a fair few of my makes! It's all starting to make sense...

By using the block, and playing with it in both paper and fabric form, I managed to work out and create all the extra features - of course I had the help and support of the wonderful tutor too! Let me show you some of the pattern details...




I removed that humongous breast-accommodating dart on the front bodice in favour of a princess seam. I usually avoid princess seams because the prospect of adjusting them to fit my bust fills me with dread, but now I have a block it's easy peasy! I took the princess seams all the way though the back bodice too so they match nicely at the shoulder seam. Then, like my inspiration image, I added this neat little pleat on the outside shoulder.



I opened up the neckline and took it into a shallow v shape, which is actually really flattering. Much to my tutor's umm... disgust.... I top-stitched the neckline. I don't think it's so bad to be honest, but in what felt like true Project Runway style, he said that the top-stitching 'absolutely killed it' (and not in a good way haha). Following this, I did get shown how to properly draft and apply a facing, and how to understitch so you never get a peek of it from the outside. Never going to attempt dodgy topstitching again!



On the plus side, the tutor did say that my concealed zip was excellently executed - hooray! Even I can't believe how well I matched all the seams!




I drafted basic sleeves from a ready-made block, and then from that, worked them into two pieces to form a petal. There's a small box pleat on top to add fullness, and a couple of small pleats in there. I love the sleeves, but they feel just a little bit tight in the back when the dress is being worn. I think I need to make them a little bigger (cut and spread technique maybe..?) and slightly gather then into the back bodice to add a bit of ease.




For this version, I added just a very basic gathered skirt which was roughly based on the Emery skirt. I'm working on drafting a wrap pencil skirt for the final version of the dress, which I'll hopefully be making up in the next few weeks. I'm imaging it in a lovely emerald green wool crepe...




So in all, I'm pretty pleased with my first self drafted dress! I've learnt a lot along the way and still have a few things to tweak for the final version, but I'll definitely be wearing this one with pride :)

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12 comments

  1. Wow, you've done a brilliant job. Looks great and is a lovely design. Well done. Zoe

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  2. Thanks Zoe, I'm really looking forward to making the final version :) x

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  3. One look at that dress and I had the intention to buy the pattern! Really beautifull! So great you made it yourself! Congrats!

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    1. Thank you so much for such a lovely comment! I think it' will have to become my 'staple' dress :) x

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  4. Lovely! Well done! This has made me so excited to do my pattern cutting course now! X

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    1. Thanks Cerian! I feel so much more confident approaching my sewing now. I'm sure you'll love your course too! Good luck with it :) x

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  5. Oh my goodness, this is amazing! I love so much about your dress - the shoulder pleats, the petal sleeves, the top-stitched neckline (that caught my eye straight away - your tutor is so wrong!). This is an interesting post for me, as I am learning pattern drafting too; but sadly not at a class, as there are none where I live - I've been using Craftsy classes. Good luck with your drafting adventures, I shall look forward to reading about them!

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    1. Hi Lynne, thanks so much for your lovely comment! I'm really glad you like the top stitching (I do too!) I've heard the Craftsy classes are really good - it's a great skill to learn, especially having the guts to cut and move bits around to make them work for you. Hope your drafting goes well too :) x

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  6. Great job! I love the neckline shape and the petal leaves are a really pretty and unusual detail. Looking forward to seeing your final dress! I also suffer from my back bodice needing to be a lot smaller than my bodice front. Still figuring that one out! Haha

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    1. Thanks so much Jo! The back bodice fitting always baffled me but think I'm starting to get it a bit more now x

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